Beaded welting



Jan. 17, 1928. 1,656,565

H. LYON BEADED WELTING,

Filed April 26. 1924 Patented Jan. 17, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO JOHN A. HARBOUR, 01H

BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, AND PERLEY E. BARIBOUR, OF QUINCY, MASSA-CHUSETTS, A COPARTNERSHIP UNDER PANY, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

.THE NAME 01? BARBOUR WELTING COM- IBEADED WELTING.

Application filed April 26,

This invention relates to welting of that type known as cork-sole whichcomprises a rib or head, usually formed of material other than that ofthe welt body, upstanding from its upper face and lying, in thecompleted shoe. in a position closely engaging the outer face of theupper adjacent to its attachment to the insole and welt.

It is some times desirable that this head shall match the appearance ofthe upper rather than that of the upper face of the welt. V

This invention, therefore, provides a construction in which the exposedface of the bead may be formed of upper material or a simultationthereof.

It is also desirable that the rib or head =hall lie flat against theupper face of the welt and be held tightly thereto especially at itsouter edge or the exposed end of its meeting plane with the welt body,there being a strong tendency for the rib to raise therefrom,particularly where the welt is sharply curved as where it passes aboutthe toe portion of the shoe.

In the construction of this invention the bead is held down tightlyalong its outer edge to the upper face of the welt body.

For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be hadto the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a cross sectionthrough a blank welt strip.

Figure 2 is a similar view showing the strip shaped in cross section forattachment thereto of the bead.

Figure 3 is a transverse section of a strip of core covering material ofwhich the exposed face of the head is composed.

Figure 4 is a similar view showing the covering material strip stitchedto the shaped blank.

Figure 5 is a cross section of a core or filler strip.

Figure 6 is a cross section of the completed welt.

Figure 7 is a fragmentary cross section through the edgeportion of awelt shoe showing the melt in position.

Figure 8 is a cross section of a partially beveled as at 2, a groove 3being formed in 1924. Serial No. 709,224.

completed welt of a slightly modified construction.

Figure 9 is a cross section through the completed welt made according tothis construction.

In Figure 1 is indicated a strip 1 rectan-' gular in cross. section.This strip may then be formed as in Figure 2, its inner edge being itslower face to receive the inseam stitches when the welt is sewed inplace on the shoe. The upper face of the strip 1 may be cut awayadjacent to its inner edge, as by the rabbet 4, to produce a shoulder 5,this being on the base portion of the welt. A strip which may be ofupper material as leather 6, shown detached in Figure 3, is thensuperposed on the base strip with its grain or finished side overlyingthe face of the base strip and one edge portion passing down over theshoulder 5, if present, and overlying a portion of the upper face of thecut away portion 4' as shown in Figure 4:. This strip 6 is made fast tothe base strip by means of a line of stitching 7 passing through bothstrips outwardly of the groove 3 and closely adjacent to the shoulder 5.Next a length of filler strip material 8, preferably of triangular crosssection, shown detached in Figure 5, is placed on the strip 6 andoverlying the cut away edge 4 inwardly of the stitch line 7 forming acore over which the strip 6 is then brought as a cover with its inneredge 9 brought down against the upper face of the base strip at itsinner edge portion 4, this covering strip being preferably cemented bothto the filler strip and against the base strip, this forming thecompleted beaded welt, as shown in Figure 6 with the bead lyingsubstantially wholly within the cut away portion of the base stripinwardly of and bearing against the shoulder 5. By turning the coveringstrip over in this manner its prepared or grain side is presentedoutwardly and it isv held down 9 againstthe base strip outwardly of theinseam stitch line and adjacent to the outer edge of the bead by theline of stitching 7. This is shown particularly in Figure 7 in which thewelt is shown in position on the shoe. By this construction theformation of an space between the bead and the upr ace of the strip dueto the upward ending of the bead portion is entirely prevented. There isa strong tendency for separation of the bead and the base strip at theouter edge of the bead particularly where the welt is sharply curved asabout the toe of the shoe. This is prevented by the presentconstruction.

It will be noted that the inseam stitch line 10 passes through thestitching rib 11 of the innersole, the lining 12 and upper 13 of theshoe, through the inner edge of the strip material 6 as at 14, andthrough the base strip lying within the stitch receiving groove 3thereof. The cementing of the strip 6 over the filler strip and againstthe upper face of the base is therefore not relied upon to hold thestrip 6 in the finished shoe, but only until it is placed in positionfor the innerseam stitching to pass therethrough.

By this construction a head fitting firmly -between the upper face ofthe welt and the upper of the shoe is produced and by cutting away thefoundation strip, as at 4, to substantially the thickness of the strip6, the inner portion of the welt as applied to the shoe is of the samethickness as that out-' The outer wardly of the stitch receiving rib.

the usual sole 15 is attached to the welt by line of outsole stitching16.

. If desired the filler stri may be united to the other parts by stitcing, as shown in Figures 8 and 9. Where this is done the filler strip 8and the covering strip 6 are stitched to the base strip in superposedrelation by a line of stitching passing through the base outwardly oftheinseam stitch receiving rib 3. The outer edge of the covering strip 6is then turned over the filler strip, as indicated in Figure 9, andcemented thereto and to the upper face of the cut away portion 4. Whenthe welt is made in this manner the inseam stitching passes through theinner edge portion of the covering strip 6 and lies within the groove 3in the manner above described substantially along the dotted line 21, asshown in Figure 9, so that the bead is held firmly by stitching both atits outer and inner edges to the upper face of the welt.

It will be observed that in both forms of the beaded welt the securementof the bead along its outer edge to the base strip is wholly concealedfrom view. The shoulder 5 formed by cutting away the inner margin of thewelt body will, when used, provide double insurance against an exposureof the bead securing seam under the strains tending to lift the headfrom the welt body, because the shoulder provides for sinking thefastening below the level of the face of the welt body. D Having thusdescribed certain embodiof upper material stitch ments of this inventionit should be evident to those skilled in the art that many changes andmodifications might be made therein without departing from its spirit orscope as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A welt comprising a base strip and a bead fixed to one face thereof,said head comprisin a core and a covering of material separate rom saidbasestrip, and fixed to said base adjacent to its outer edge.

. 2. A. welt comprising a base strip having a bead fixed to one facethereof, said bead comprising a core and a covering strip of edge tosaid base outwardly of the inseam stitch line of the welt and adjacentto the I outer edge of said bead, the other edge of said covering stripbeing turned up and inwardl in osition for the inseam stitches to passteret rough.

3. A welt comprisinga base strip having a cut away portion on its upperface forming a shoulder, and a strip of thin material stitched along oneedge to said strip at the shoulder of said cut away portion, theopposite edge being turned up and inwardly and overlying the inneredgeof said cut away portion and fixed thereto to form a -bead lyingsubstantially wholly within said cutaway portion, the upper face of saidopposite edge being in substantial alinement with the upper face of saidbase strip outwardl of said cut away portion.

4. g welt comprising a base strip having a cut away portion on its upperface, a strip of upper material stitched along one edge adjacent to theouter edge of said cut away portion, the opposite edge being turned upand inwardly and overlying the inner edge of said cut away portion andfixed thereto, the upper face of said opposite edge being in substantialalinement with the upper face of said base strip outwardly of said cutaway portion, and a filler strip overlying the stitched edge of saidupper material strip and wrapped about by said upper material strip saidfiller strip and upper ma 5. A welt comprising a base stri having a cutaway portion on its upper co, and a strip ofupper material stitched alonone edge adjacent to the outer edge of sai cut away ortion and outwardlyof the inseam stitch ine, the opposite edge bei turned up and inwardlyand overlying t e inner e ge of said cut away portion and fixed thereto,the u per face of said opposite edge being in su stantial alinement witht 8 upper face of said base strip outwardly of saidcut away portion.

6. A welt comprising a base strip having a cut away portion on itseipper face, a strip along one edge ll adjacent to the outer edge ofsaid cut away ortion and outwardly of the inseam stitch ine, theopposite edge being turned up and inwardly and overlying the inner edgeof said cut away portion and fixed thereto, the upper face of saidopposite edge being in substantial alinement with the 11 per face ofsaid blank strip outwardly 0 said cutaway portion, and a filler stripoverlying the stltched edge of said upper material strip and wrappedabout by sa1d upper ma-. terial strip.

7. A welt comprising a base strip and a bead fixed to one face thereof,said bead com rising a strip of upper materialtand a fi er strip coveredover thereby fixed to said blank strip by a line of stitching passedthrough the upper material and filler strip along the outer edge of saidbead.

8. A welt comprising a base strip and a, bead fixed to one face thereof,said'bead comprising a strip of upper material and a filler stripcovered over thereby fixed to said blank strip by a line of stitchingpassed through the upper material and filler strip outwardly of theinseam stitch line.

9. A welt comprising a base strip and a bead fixed to one face thereof,said bead comprising a strip of upper material and a filler stripcovered over thereby fixed to said base strip by a line of stitchingpassed through the filler strip and one edge of the u per material stripalong the outer edge of said bead and overlaid by the upper ma- .terialstrip.

10. A welt comprising a base stri and a bead fixed to one face thereof,sald bead comprising a strip of upper material and a filler stripcovered over thereby fixed to said base strip by a line of stitchingpassed through the filler strip and one edge of the upper material stripoutwardly of the in,- seam stitch line and overlaid by the uppermaterial strip.

11. A welt comprising a base strip having a cut away portion on itsupper face along its inner edge, a strip of upper materiaLhaving itsinner edge overlying the cut away portion of said base strip, a fillerstrip overlying said inner edge of said upper material strip, and a lineof stitching passing through said filler, the upper material strip andbase strip adjacent to the outer edge of said cut away portion andoutwardly of the inseam stitch line, the opposite edge of said uppermaterial strip being turned up and inward over said filler strip andcemented thereto and to said base strip, its upper face at the inneredge of said base stnp being in substantial alinement with the upperface of said base strip outwardly of said cut away portion.

12. 'A welt comprising a base strip and a bead, said head comprising acore and a covering strip fixed to said base strip at the outer edge ofthe bead by a fastening through said covering and base strips.

13. Welting of the cork-sole type comprising a body portion having acore and a folded covering-strip therefor forming a bead at the innermargin of the body portion, and bead-securing means through the underfold of said covering-strip adjacent the outer face of said bead andentering the body portion. I

14. Welting of the cork-sole type comprising a body portion having abead at its inner margin, and stitching covered by material forming thebead for securing said bead adjacent its outer face to the body portion.

15. Welting comprising a base strip having a bead fixed to one facethereof, said bead comprising flexible strip material having one edgestitched to said base strip along a line outward of the inseam stitchline'of the welt and its other edge folded over said stitching towardthe inner edge of the base strip.

16. Welting comprising a basestrip having a bead along its inner marginthe outer face of which forms a shoulder, said bead being united to saidbase strip by a fastening passing through a portion of the bead at thebase of and inside said shoulder and into the base stri ii e Intestimony w ereof I have aflixed my signature. p

\ HARRY LY ON.

